Rolex's first vintage rainbow Daytona to be auctioned for over CHF 3 million

The Rolex Rainbow Daytona: A Symphony of Nobility and Rarity

When mentioning Rolex, the most sought-after model in today’s watch market is undoubtedly the Daytona. Among this iconic series, the true masterpiece at the pinnacle is the Ref. 116595RBOW, released in 2018. Its brilliance lies not only in the fusion of craftsmanship and quality but also in the dazzling circle of colorful sapphires set on its bezel, elevating the entire series to a new artistic height. Due to its stunning visual impact, this model has earned a more poetic nickname—the “Rainbow Daytona.”

The Rainbow Daytona's visual allure needs no further elaboration. Time seems to stand still in its presence; the sapphire-set bezel resembles dew drops beneath a rainbow. Each gemstone is carefully selected and arranged to create a natural and seamless gradient that produces an unparalleled rainbow halo. From purple to red, from orange to green, each sapphire’s transition appears as if painted by a master’s brush, leaving no room for abruptness. Who could resist the allure of such a radiant display?

Sky-High Prices on the Secondary Market: The Story Behind the Premium

As a "hidden" model within the Rolex collection, the Rainbow Daytona is nearly impossible to purchase at retail price through official channels. The official price is set at 74,590 EUR, but in the secondary market, the story is quite different: pre-owned models have soared to over 340,000 EUR, while brand-new pieces are priced upwards of 400,000 EUR. Such a high premium undeniably reflects its rarity and the immense demand in the market. This watch is not merely a luxurious accessory for the wrist; it is the ultimate treasure coveted by watch collectors.

However, the soaring prices often conceal deeper stories. The birth of the Rainbow Daytona is not just a perfect marriage of luxury gemstones and precise mechanics but a tale of innovation and perseverance. In 2018, Rolex redefined the aesthetics of the Daytona series with its bold sapphire gradient design, immediately captivating the attention of watch enthusiasts and sparking a grand "rainbow trend." Meanwhile, Rolex's stringent requirements made this design exceedingly challenging to execute. Compared to other brands that use various crystals, tourmalines, and other stones, Rolex insists on using jewelry-grade sapphires, meaning that Rolex’s control over color, cut, and quality is more rigorous than any other brand in the market.

Early Rainbow Attempts: Homage to Classics and Reinvention

In fact, Rolex experimented with rainbow designs as early as the 1980s with its Day-Date series. However, these early attempts did not create the waves in the collector’s community as the Daytona does today. For most watch enthusiasts, the origin of the Rainbow Daytona starts with the 2012 yellow gold model 116598RBOW and the white gold model 116599RBOW. However, among a select group of seasoned collectors, there is an unresolved "legend" that dates back to the late 1990s: Rolex reportedly released an early version of the Rainbow Daytona during that time. Eric Ku, a renowned figure in the watch collecting world, once mentioned that he encountered such a piece during his career. Still, due to its rarity, he hesitated to confirm whether these colored stones were of factory origin, ultimately missing out on this treasure.

Return to the Scene: The “Original Rainbow Daytona” at Auction

Now, this Rolex legend seems to have found its proof. On November 8, 2024, Phillips Auction House will host a themed auction in Geneva titled "Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999." One of the highlights is the "Original Rainbow Daytona"—the Rolex Daytona "Rainbow" 16599. As the “forefather” of the Rainbow Daytona, this platinum watch from the 1990s stands out with its rainbow-gradient gemstone bezel and diamond-and-sapphire hour markers. Inside beats the Zenith El Primero-based Caliber 4030, a design that amazed everyone at the time and laid the foundation for the subsequent Rainbow Daytona series.

Compared to the modern Rainbow Daytona models, this “forefather” design is not only innovative for its era but also possesses a return-to-basics charm. It showcases Rolex's mastery of color, material, and craftsmanship, as if presenting a feast of visual and technical brilliance. No wonder many industry experts believe that the auction estimate for this watch could far exceed expectations.

The Rainbow Shines On, Regardless of Time

As a gem among high-luxury timepieces, the Rolex Rainbow Daytona is more than just a watch—it is a symbol of identity, a pursuit of rarity, and uniqueness. The ripples it has stirred in the watch world have never settled; instead, like the sapphires on its bezel, it becomes more dazzling with time. If you find yourself drawn to this legendary series, we invite you to visit our offline stores or contact us through our website. Our professional consultants will work with you one-on-one to help you find the Rainbow Daytona of your dreams.