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Unlocking the Secret Language of Rolex Collectors: A Comprehensive Guide to Nicknames and Terms
September 16, 2024
Rolex, a name synonymous with luxury and precision, has long been a favorite among watch enthusiasts and collectors worldwide. Yet, beyond its esteemed reputation and iconic designs, there lies a rich tapestry of insider jargon and affectionate nicknames that have emerged over decades. From the sleek "Batman" to the opulent "John Player Special," these terms are not just playful monikers but represent a deep-seated culture within the Rolex community.
In this comprehensive guide, we delve into the fascinating world of Rolex's nicknames and exclusive terms. We’ll explore the stories behind these evocative names, the distinctive features that earned them, and how they reflect the evolving tastes of collectors. Whether you’re a seasoned connoisseur or a curious newcomer, join us as we decode the secret language of Rolex and uncover the unique charm that each nickname holds.
1. Bombay Lugs (Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 5018)
Highlights: Known for its elegantly curved lugs, the Rolex Bombay Lugs design was popular in the 1940s. The Ref. 5018 is a vintage 34mm watch, often in gold, with a simple, classic dial.
Market Price: Vintage Rolex models like this vary greatly in price. The Ref. 5018 can fetch anywhere from €8,000 to €12,000, depending on the condition and provenance.
Ease of Acquisition: Being a vintage model from the 1940s, this watch is quite rare, making it difficult to find in good, original condition.
2. Bubbleback (1930-50s Rolex Oyster Perpetual)
Highlights: The Bubbleback gets its name from its distinctive convex case back, designed to house the rotor of Rolex’s early self-winding movements. These vintage models typically feature 32-34mm cases and come in a variety of materials, including stainless steel and gold.
Market Price: Depending on condition, Bubbleback models generally sell for between €5,000 and €10,000, though rare versions can command higher prices.
Ease of Acquisition: Bubbleback watches are popular among vintage collectors, but their availability has decreased over the years, making them relatively hard to find in good working condition.
3. Batman (Rolex GMT-Master II 116710BLNR)
Highlights: The "Batman" is known for its striking blue and black ceramic bezel (Cerachrom), representing night and day, paired with a 40mm Oyster case. It features Rolex's Caliber 3186 movement, which includes a 24-hour hand for dual time zones.
Market Price: On the secondary market, prices for the Rolex Batman range from €15,000 to €20,000, depending on the year of production and condition.
Ease of Acquisition: The Batman is in high demand, making it moderately difficult to acquire, especially in mint condition or with full sets.
4. Cerachrom (Rolex’s Ceramic Bezel)
Highlights: Cerachrom is Rolex's proprietary ceramic material used for bezels, known for its extreme hardness, resistance to scratches, and resistance to UV light. It is featured on many professional models, such as the Submariner, GMT-Master II, and Daytona.
Market Price: Since Cerachrom bezels are part of current production models, prices depend on the specific watch. For instance, a Submariner with a Cerachrom bezel can range from €10,000 to €13,000.
Ease of Acquisition: Most modern Rolex professional models with Cerachrom bezels are in high demand, especially the Submariner and GMT-Master II models, which can have long waitlists at authorized dealers.
5. Coca-Cola (Rolex GMT-Master II 126710)
Highlights: The “Coca-Cola” nickname refers to the red and black bezel on the GMT-Master II Ref. 16710. This model was produced from 1989 to 2007 and is equipped with Rolex’s Caliber 3185 movement.
Market Price: The market price for a GMT-Master II "Coca-Cola" generally falls between €14,000 and €18,000, depending on the condition and year of production.
Ease of Acquisition: As the model is no longer in production, finding a well-preserved or NOS (new old stock) version can be challenging, making it moderately difficult to acquire.
6. Dirty Harry (Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 1675)
Highlights: This GMT-Master Ref. 1675 became famous thanks to Clint Eastwood, who wore it in several of his films. The watch features a brown dial and bezel, commonly referred to as the “Root Beer” color scheme, with a two-tone case and bracelet.
Market Price: Prices for the GMT-Master Ref. 1675 "Dirty Harry" typically range from €16,000 to €22,000, depending on the condition and provenance.
Ease of Acquisition: Vintage models like this one are highly sought after and scarce, especially in good condition with original parts, making it relatively hard to find.
7. Fat Lady (Rolex GMT-Master II 16760)
Highlights: The “Fat Lady” refers to the GMT-Master II Ref. 16760, which was the first GMT-Master II to feature a thicker case, earning it the nickname. It has a red and black “Coke” bezel and uses the Caliber 3085, allowing for an independently adjustable hour hand.
Market Price: The Fat Lady typically sells for €14,000 to €18,000, depending on its condition and whether it comes with original box and papers.
Ease of Acquisition: Since the Fat Lady was produced in the 1980s and is no longer in production, it can be hard to find in excellent condition, making it moderately difficult to acquire.
8. FROG (Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 1665)
Highlights: The FROG is an early model of the Rolex Sea-Dweller, known for its robust build and helium escape valve, which allowed divers to go deeper than the Submariner. Its nickname comes from its deep-sea diving association.
Market Price: Vintage Sea-Dweller models like the Ref. 1665 are highly collectible, with prices ranging from €25,000 to €45,000, depending on the condition and rarity.
Ease of Acquisition: Vintage Sea-Dwellers are difficult to come by in good condition, especially models from the 1970s, making this one relatively rare and hard to find.
9. Hulk (Rolex Submariner 116610LV)
Highlights: The Hulk is known for its distinctive green dial and bezel, which is made from Rolex’s proprietary Cerachrom material. It’s part of the Submariner series and boasts a 40mm case and the Caliber 3135 movement.
Market Price: Prices for the Hulk range from €16,000 to €20,000 on the secondary market, especially since it was discontinued in 2020.
Ease of Acquisition: Due to its discontinued status and high popularity, the Hulk is quite difficult to acquire, especially in mint or unworn condition.
10. Kermit (Rolex Submariner 16610LV)
Highlights: The Kermit, like the Hulk, features a green bezel, but pairs it with a black dial. Released to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Submariner, the Kermit is a fan favorite among Rolex collectors.
Market Price: Depending on condition and year, the Kermit can range from €18,000 to €22,000.
Ease of Acquisition: Since the Kermit was discontinued in 2010, it has become harder to find, especially in good condition, making it moderately difficult to acquire.
11. John Mayer (Rolex Daytona Ref. 116508)
Highlights: The “John Mayer” Daytona is named after the musician, who famously owns this watch. It features a striking yellow gold case with a green dial and is powered by Rolex’s Caliber 4130 movement.
Market Price: The John Mayer Daytona has seen a significant increase in demand, with prices now ranging from €55,000 to €70,000.
Ease of Acquisition: Due to its immense popularity and association with John Mayer, this Daytona is very difficult to acquire, especially from authorized dealers, and often comes with a substantial premium on the secondary market.
12. Nipple Dial (Vintage GMT-Master 1675 & 16753)
Highlights: The “Nipple Dial” refers to older GMT-Master models that feature protruding gold hour markers, resembling nipples. These models often come in two-tone or full-gold configurations.
Market Price: Prices for these vintage GMT-Masters can vary greatly but generally range from €18,000 to €25,000, depending on condition and original parts.
Ease of Acquisition: Given the vintage status of the Nipple Dial models, they are becoming increasingly difficult to find in good condition, making them relatively rare and sought after.
13. Panda (Rolex Daytona 116500LN)
Highlights: The Panda Daytona is famous for its white dial with black sub-dials, reminiscent of a panda’s face. It features a 40mm stainless steel case, ceramic bezel, and is powered by the Caliber 4130 movement.
Market Price: Due to high demand, prices for the Panda Daytona range from €30,000 to €38,000 on the secondary market.
Ease of Acquisition: The Panda Daytona is highly desirable and hard to obtain from authorized dealers due to long waitlists, making it very difficult to acquire without paying a premium.
14. Pepsi (Rolex GMT-Master II 126710BLRO)
Highlights: The “Pepsi” GMT-Master II gets its name from the blue and red bezel, which represents night and day. The model features a Jubilee bracelet and the Caliber 3285 movement with a 70-hour power reserve.
Market Price: On the secondary market, the Pepsi GMT sells for around €20,000 to €25,000.
Ease of Acquisition: Due to its immense popularity, the Pepsi GMT is difficult to acquire at retail, often resulting in long wait times or higher secondary market prices.
15. Platona (Rolex Daytona 116506)
Highlights: The Platona is a platinum version of the Rolex Daytona, featuring a striking ice-blue dial and a 40mm case. It is powered by the Caliber 4130 and has a 72-hour power reserve.
Market Price: The Platona is a highly sought-after model, with prices ranging from €100,000 to €130,000.
Ease of Acquisition: The Platona is one of the most luxurious and rare Daytona models, making it very difficult to acquire, especially from authorized dealers.
16. Polar (Rolex Explorer II 16570 & 216570)
Highlights: The Polar Explorer II is known for its white dial, contrasted by black indices and hands. It features a 42mm case in the newer 216570 model and is equipped with the Caliber 3187 movement. The 16570 is a previous generation model with a 40mm case and Caliber 3185 movement.
Market Price: Prices for the Explorer II Polar 16570 range from €8,000 to €10,000, while the newer 216570 can go for €10,000 to €13,000.
Ease of Acquisition: Both versions are fairly accessible, but the Polar 16570, being discontinued, is becoming more sought after, making it moderately difficult to acquire in pristine condition.
17. President (Rolex Day-Date)
Highlights: The “President” refers to the Rolex Day-Date, most often in yellow gold or platinum. It’s called the President because it has been worn by several U.S. presidents. The Day-Date comes with a distinctive President bracelet and is known for displaying both the day and date on the dial.
Market Price: Depending on the material (yellow gold, rose gold, or platinum), the price of a President can range from €25,000 to €45,000.
Ease of Acquisition: While still in production, the more exclusive materials like platinum are harder to find at authorized dealers, though the yellow and rose gold models are more readily available.
18. Root Beer (Rolex GMT-Master II 126711CHNR & 16753)
Highlights: The Root Beer GMT-Master II is distinguished by its brown and gold bezel, resembling the colors of root beer. The earlier models, such as the 16753, have a two-tone steel and gold case, while the newer model (126711CHNR) comes with a Cerachrom bezel in black and brown and uses the Caliber 3285.
Market Price: Prices for the vintage 16753 range from €10,000 to €15,000, while the modern Root Beer 126711CHNR can go for around €18,000 to €22,000.
Ease of Acquisition: The vintage models are becoming harder to find, making them more difficult to acquire. The modern 126711CHNR is easier to obtain but still requires some wait time from authorized dealers.
19. Smurf (Rolex Submariner 116619LB)
Highlights: The Smurf Submariner is known for its all-blue color scheme, featuring a blue dial and bezel in a white gold case. It is equipped with the Caliber 3135 movement and has a 40mm case with a unidirectional rotating bezel.
Market Price: Prices for the Smurf are typically between €40,000 and €50,000 on the secondary market.
Ease of Acquisition: As it was discontinued in 2020, the Smurf has become increasingly hard to find, especially in unworn or mint condition, making it quite difficult to acquire.
20. Soda (Rolex GMT-Master II 16710 & 116710LN)
Highlights: The "Soda" nickname refers to the combination of various bezel colors in the GMT-Master II series. The 16710 featured the "Pepsi" and "Coke" bezels, while the 116710LN has a black bezel. These models allow the wearer to track multiple time zones thanks to the Caliber 3186.
Market Price: Prices for the 16710 can range from €15,000 to €20,000, depending on the condition, while the 116710LN is typically around €12,000 to €16,000.
Ease of Acquisition: The older 16710 is becoming harder to find, making it moderately difficult to acquire, while the 116710LN is more accessible but still in demand on the secondary market.
21. Starbucks (Rolex Submariner 126610LV)
Highlights: The Starbucks Submariner is the successor to the Kermit, featuring a green Cerachrom bezel with a black dial. It comes with a 41mm stainless steel case and is powered by the Caliber 3235 movement, offering a 70-hour power reserve.
Market Price: On the secondary market, the Starbucks can be found for around €14,000 to €18,000.
Ease of Acquisition: The Starbucks is a current production model but is highly popular, making it relatively difficult to acquire at retail due to waitlists.
22. Steve McQueen (Rolex Explorer II 1655)
Highlights: Although Steve McQueen never officially wore the Rolex Explorer II 1655, the watch has become associated with the actor due to its rugged, adventurous style. It features a 40mm case, a fixed 24-hour bezel, and an orange 24-hour hand, designed for cave explorers.
Market Price: Vintage 1655 models can range from €25,000 to €40,000, depending on their condition and originality.
Ease of Acquisition: As a vintage model from the 1970s, the Steve McQueen Explorer II is difficult to find in good condition and is highly sought after by collectors.
23. Tiger Eye (Rolex Day-Date 18078)
Highlights: The Tiger Eye Day-Date features a unique tiger-eye stone dial, giving it a striking appearance. This model is often found in yellow gold and comes with a fluted bezel and President bracelet.
Market Price: The Tiger Eye Day-Date typically sells for around €25,000 to €35,000, depending on its condition and whether it comes with original papers.
Ease of Acquisition: The Tiger Eye dial is a rare variant, making it difficult to find, especially in excellent condition with its original parts intact.
24. Turn-O-Graph (Rolex Datejust Turn-O-Graph 116264)
Highlights: The Turn-O-Graph is a unique Datejust model featuring a rotating bezel, making it the first Rolex tool watch. It was initially designed for aviation and military use. The model comes in stainless steel and white gold or two-tone variants.
Market Price: Prices for the Turn-O-Graph range from €7,000 to €9,000.
Ease of Acquisition: Since the Turn-O-Graph was discontinued in 2011, it has become moderately difficult to find, especially in good condition.
25. Unicorn (Rolex Daytona Ref. 6265)
Highlights: The Unicorn is an extremely rare white gold version of the Rolex Daytona Ref. 6265, produced in the 1970s. Only one is known to exist, making it one of the most exclusive Rolex models ever created.
Market Price: As a one-off model, the Unicorn sold for over €5 million at auction.
Ease of Acquisition: The Unicorn is virtually impossible to acquire as it is the only known example, making it one of the rarest Rolex watches in existence.
26. Vampire (Rolex Daytona 116509 Black & Red Dial)
Highlights: The Vampire Daytona refers to a special version of the Rolex Daytona 116509 with a black dial featuring red accents on the subdials and the outer track. It is crafted in white gold, providing a luxurious feel with a sporty appearance.
Market Price: Prices for the Vampire Daytona typically range from €40,000 to €50,000 depending on the condition and availability.
Ease of Acquisition: This version is rare due to the unique color scheme and white gold material, making it moderately difficult to acquire on the secondary market.
27. Wimbledon (Rolex Datejust 126333 & 116333)
Highlights: The Wimbledon Datejust is recognized for its distinctive slate gray dial with green Roman numerals. It is often paired with a fluted bezel and two-tone case, offering a combination of sporty and elegant aesthetics.
Market Price: The 126333 Wimbledon typically costs between €11,000 to €14,000, while older versions like the 116333 are priced at €10,000 to €12,000.
Ease of Acquisition: As a current model, the Wimbledon Datejust is fairly accessible, though waitlists exist due to its growing popularity.
28. Zenith Daytona (Rolex Daytona Ref. 16520)
Highlights: The Zenith Daytona refers to the Rolex Daytona powered by the Zenith El Primero movement (Caliber 4030). This model, produced from the late 1980s to 2000, features a 40mm case and is available in various dial configurations.
Market Price: The Zenith Daytona is highly collectible, with prices ranging from €25,000 to €40,000, depending on the version and condition.
Ease of Acquisition: Due to its iconic status as the last Daytona before Rolex began using its in-house movements, the Zenith Daytona is highly sought after, making it moderately difficult to find.
29. Zorro (Rolex Milgauss 1019 with Cross-Hair Dial)
Highlights: The Zorro nickname refers to the Rolex Milgauss 1019 featuring a rare "cross-hair" dial. This model was produced in the 1960s and 70s, offering a distinctive look and antimagnetic properties for scientists and engineers.
Market Price: The Zorro Milgauss is a vintage rarity, with prices ranging from €40,000 to €70,000, depending on its condition.
Ease of Acquisition: Extremely hard to find, the Zorro Milgauss is considered a collector’s piece, especially for those looking for models in good condition with original parts.
30. John Player Special (Rolex Daytona Ref. 6264)
Highlights: The John Player Special (JPS) Daytona refers to a rare gold Daytona Ref. 6264 with a black "Paul Newman" dial. Its nickname comes from the color combination resembling the livery of the Lotus Formula 1 team sponsored by John Player Special.
Market Price: As an ultra-rare model, the JPS Daytona can fetch upwards of €1.5 million at auction.
Ease of Acquisition: The John Player Special is one of the rarest Rolex Daytonas ever made, making it nearly impossible to acquire outside of major auctions or private collections.
Rolex watches have long transcended their status as mere timepieces. Each model, from the iconic Submariner to the luxurious Daytona, carries with it a rich history, steeped in craftsmanship, innovation, and style. But it's the unique nicknames and insider terms that have helped foster a deep sense of community among collectors and enthusiasts alike. These affectionate monikers, like "Batman" and "John Player Special," represent more than just a watch—they reflect the passion, culture, and storytelling that surround the brand.
As the market for luxury watches continues to evolve, the importance of understanding these nicknames and terms grows, offering insights into trends, values, and even the ease (or difficulty) of acquiring these coveted pieces. Whether you're a seasoned collector or just beginning your Rolex journey, this guide provides a window into the fascinating world of Rolex, where tradition meets modernity, and where each watch tells a story as unique as its nickname.
If any of you readers know of any Rolex nicknames or terms that I may have missed, feel free to share them in the comments below. Rolex’s rich history is full of fascinating stories, and your contributions could help uncover even more hidden gems within the community. Let's keep the conversation going and continue to explore the incredible world of Rolex together!
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